Gas Burner Keeps Clicking? What Causes It and What to Check
Clicking with every knob off, clicking while the flame is lit, and clicking without lighting are three different problems. Here is how to tell them apart.
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Smell gas? Don’t touch any switches or knobs. Leave the house and call PG&E or 911 from outside; call a technician after the utility has made it safe.
Which kind of clicking is it?
| What happens | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Clicks with every knob off | A knob (valve) switch is stuck closed or shorted, often by moisture; or the spark module has failed |
| Clicks continuously after a spill or cleaning | Moisture on the igniter or in a switch. Usually stops once dry |
| Lights, but keeps clicking while lit | On ranges with automatic re-ignition, the module isn’t sensing the flame: a dirty igniter, a cap not seated, or wiring and outlet polarity |
| Clicks but doesn’t light | Wet or cracked igniter, clogged burner cap or ports, or a weak spark from the module |
| Only one burner misbehaves | That burner’s igniter, cap, ports or switch |
| All burners click when one knob is turned | Normal on many cooktops: one module sparks every igniter at once |
The checks, in order
- Let it dry. If a pot boiled over or you just cleaned the cooktop, give it time. Wolf suggests a hair dryer on low to speed it up.
- Clean the igniter and ports. With the burner cool, brush the white ceramic igniter gently with a soft, dry toothbrush and clear food from the burner ports with a toothpick.
- Seat the cap. The burner cap or ring must sit centered and flat on the burner head. A cap that is slightly off can stop the burner lighting or stop a re-ignition range from sensing the flame.
- Work the knobs. Push each knob in and release it; it should spring back and the clicking should stop. A knob that sticks keeps its switch closed.
- Reset the power. Turn the range’s breaker off for 30 seconds, then on, and test again.
- If it sparks constantly, Wolf’s guidance is to check the outlet’s wiring and polarity. If it sparks while not in use at all, Wolf says to consult an electrician.
Why moisture makes a burner click
Each burner knob turns a gas valve that has a small electrical switch on its stem. Turning any knob to Lite closes its switch, and the spark module sends a high-voltage pulse to the igniters: that is the click. Water in a switch, or a film of water or grease on the igniter’s ceramic, gives the current an easier path, so the module keeps firing even with the knob back at Off or the burner lit. As it dries, the path disappears and the clicking stops. When it doesn’t stop after a full day dry, the switch or the module has usually failed.
Many professional-style ranges, including Wolf and Thermador, relight a burner automatically if the flame goes out. They do that by sensing the flame through the igniter. If the igniter is dirty, the cap is off-center or the wiring and polarity are wrong, the module can’t “see” the flame and keeps sparking while the burner is lit.
Brand notes
- Wolf: on the cooking side the common faults we see are on the ignition side: burner igniters, spark modules and moisture in switches. Wolf’s own guidance also covers charbroilers (turn the hood on first) and burners that haven’t been used in a long time clicking longer before they light. Wolf repair.
- Thermador: Star burner ignition and simmer problems are among the faults we check most often; a burner that misbehaves is usually a dirty or misaligned burner cap, a spark issue or a fault in the simmer function, diagnosed on the cooktop. Thermador repair.
- Viking: burner ignition is one of the usual cooking faults on Viking ranges, many of them well out of warranty in older Marin remodels. Viking repair.
What a repair involves
We test the switches, igniters and module rather than replacing them in turn. Igniters and switches are routine repairs; parts for professional-style ranges are often special-order, and you get the lead time before you approve. Most professional-style ranges are heavy and are repaired in place.
Range and cooktop repair in Marin County and San Francisco
UniFix repairs gas, electric and dual-fuel ranges, rangetops and cooktops across Marin County from San Rafael and in San Francisco from our Marina location. Diagnostic visits start at $85; the fee varies by appliance type, brand, location and appointment requirements, is confirmed before scheduling, and is applied toward the repair if you go ahead. More on oven, stove and range repair; for ovens that won’t heat, see oven not heating.
Call Marin (415) 494-7882 or San Francisco (415) 683-0403. Tell us the brand and model and which of the clicking patterns above you see.
Common questions
Why does my gas stove keep clicking after I cleaned it?
Is a constantly clicking burner dangerous?
Why does my Wolf burner click while the flame is lit?
All my burners click when I turn one knob. Is that broken?
What usually fails when cleaning doesn’t fix it?
Sources
Request a visit
Prefer to talk? Call (415) 494-7882 (San Francisco: (415) 683-0403). UniFix Appliance Repair diagnostic visits start at $85. The diagnostic fee varies by appliance type, brand, location, and appointment requirements. We confirm the fee before scheduling. If you approve the repair, the diagnostic fee is applied toward it.