Troubleshooting guide

Oven Not Heating? Start With Gas or Electric

The parts that fail are different for gas, electric and dual-fuel ovens. A glowing igniter is not proof that it works.

By Daniil, owner and lead technician · Updated · Rated 4.9 on Google from 109 reviews

Short answer. On a gas oven, the most common failure is a weak hot-surface igniter: it still glows, but it no longer draws enough current to open the gas valve, so the oven never lights. On an electric oven (and the oven of a dual-fuel range), the usual causes are the bake or broil element, the temperature sensor and the relays on the control board. If the oven heats but to the wrong temperature, or shows a code, the sensor and control come first.

Smell gas? Don’t operate any switches. Leave the house and call PG&E or 911 from outside; call a technician after the utility has made it safe.

What the symptom points to

What you seeLikely cause
Gas oven: igniter glows, no flameWeak igniter (not drawing enough current to open the valve), or the gas valve
Gas oven: no glow at allIgniter open, or no power to it from the control
Electric oven: no heat on Bake, Broil works (or the reverse)The bake (or broil) element, or its relay on the control board
Electric oven: no heat at all, display worksControl relays, a thermal cut-out on some models, wiring
Heats, but runs cold or hotTemperature sensor, control board; the code narrows the circuit
Takes forever to preheatOne element not working (many ovens use both elements to preheat), a weak igniter, a failing convection fan
Convection fan not runningFan motor, relay, the convection element on some models
Stopped heating right after a self-clean cycleThe heat of self-clean can finish off a weak element, igniter or a thermal cut-out; have it tested

Checks you can do

  1. Power and gas. Is the breaker on (electric ovens use a 240-volt double breaker; half can trip)? Is the gas supply valve open and are the cooktop burners lighting (gas)?
  2. Settings. Make sure the oven isn’t in a Sabbath, demo or delay-start mode, and that the clock is set on models that won’t start without it.
  3. Look at the bake element (electric, oven cool and off): a break, a blister or a burned spot means it has failed. Many newer ovens hide the bake element under the floor, so you may not be able to see it.
  4. Watch the igniter (gas): if it glows for a minute or more without a flame and you smell no gas, the igniter is the usual suspect. If you smell gas without ignition, stop and follow the gas-safety advice above.
  5. Write down any code and what the oven was doing when it appeared.

Why a glowing igniter can still be the bad part

Most gas ovens use a hot-surface igniter wired in series with the oven’s safety valve. The valve only opens when enough current flows through the igniter. As an igniter ages, its resistance rises: it still glows orange, but the current falls below what the valve needs, so the gas never flows. That is why the igniter is measured with a meter, not judged by eye, and why it is the most common cause of a gas oven that won’t heat.

Electric wall oven opened for a no-heat diagnosis
Electric wall oven opened for a no-heat diagnosis.
Whirlpool electric range repair
Whirlpool electric range on a repair call.
Bosch professional-style gas range with the oven door open
Professional-style gas range: same basic parts, slower parts lead times.

Professional-style ranges

Wolf, Viking, Thermador, Dacor and Bertazzoni ranges share the same basic parts but differ in access and parts lead time. We diagnose precisely before ordering, because many parts are special-order. On dual-fuel models (gas burners, electric oven) we test the elements and relays; on all-gas models the igniter and gas valve. Brand pages: Wolf, Viking, Thermador, Dacor, Bertazzoni.

Repair or replace?

Elements, igniters, sensors and switches are routine. A failed control board on an older standard range can cost more than it is worth, and we will say so; one customer wrote that being told the odds were slim saved her money.

Oven repair in Marin County and San Francisco

UniFix repairs gas, electric and dual-fuel ovens, ranges and wall ovens across Marin County from San Rafael and in San Francisco from our Marina location. Diagnostic visits start at $85; the fee varies by appliance type, brand, location and appointment requirements, is confirmed before scheduling, and is applied toward the repair if you go ahead. Repairs carry a written warranty on parts and labor; the term is stated on your invoice. More on oven, stove and range repair; for cooktop burners, see burner keeps clicking.

Call Marin (415) 494-7882 or San Francisco (415) 683-0403. Tell us gas, electric or dual-fuel, the brand, and the model number (usually on the frame behind the oven door or the storage drawer).

Common questions

My gas oven igniter glows but the oven won’t heat. Is it the igniter?
Usually yes. A worn igniter can still glow while drawing too little current to open the oven safety valve. It is measured with a meter, not judged by eye.
Why does my electric oven bake but not broil (or the reverse)?
One element or the relay that powers it has failed. The elements are tested with a meter; relays sit on the control board.
My oven stopped working after a self-clean. Why?
Self-clean runs the oven very hot for hours, which can finish off an element, igniter or thermal cut-out that was already weak. It needs testing to find which.
Do you repair professional-style ranges?
Yes: Wolf, Viking, Thermador, Dacor, Bertazzoni and similar. Many parts are special-order, so we diagnose precisely before ordering.

Request a visit

Prefer to talk? Call (415) 494-7882 (San Francisco: (415) 683-0403). UniFix Appliance Repair diagnostic visits start at $85. The diagnostic fee varies by appliance type, brand, location, and appointment requirements. We confirm the fee before scheduling. If you approve the repair, the diagnostic fee is applied toward it.

We will contact you to confirm the diagnostic fee and an appointment time before anything is scheduled.